[Part 2] The Horse at Pasture (Solo)

[Cara]

Later on Fall 20, 511 AV... Horse Ownership- Owning a horse is a rather large responsibility, and should not be taken lightly. No one should consider it unless, or until, they have the necessary facilities to care for the horse, and the rudimentary knowledge necessary to properly tend to one. This includes the knowledge of feeding, grooming, general stable management, and elementary first aid. Every horse, and every pony is in need of proper accommodations, and attention, on a daily basis- they can not be set aside one day, and not attended to until several days later. Unlike smaller domesticated animals, such as the cat, which shares the owner's home, a horse requires a larger abode to call their own, the maintenance of which takes a great deal of time, and money. Depending upon the work required of them and their breed or type, horses may either be kept on a field of grass so that they may graze, or stabled. Or even, a combination of the two, (the combined system). Thus, the owner will need access to a field in which their companion may graze, a stable, a weatherproof storage area for feed, bedding, and tools, and a secure location to keep tack and other equipment. Cara turned the page. The Horse at Grass- The horse is by nature a nomadic, grazing animal, so it is far more natural- and less stressful- to keep him in a paddock than in a stable. However, a fenced paddock, no matter how large, is still an unnatural environment for a horse, and certain precautions must be taken if the horse is to be safe and secure. Cara turned the page once more. Fencing- Every field used for grazing horses must be securely and safely fenced. Since it is within a horse's nature to roam, it is not unlikely that a horse will flee if he finds a gap in the fence's line. Similarly, if there is anything by which a horse may injure itself, he will find it- domesticated horses tend to be prone to injury. Without question, the most effective fencing is a wooden post and rail. (However, it tends to be the most time-consuming to produce and upkeep, and is often, the most expensive). It is sturdy, long lasting as long as there is not a surplus of rain or snow, and is somewhat attractive. The wooden support posts, which should be 4 inches square, must be driven well into the ground since horses like to rub against fencing, particularly when they are changing their coats. For a four foot (1.2m) fence the posts should be no less than 6 feet 6 inches (2m) in length. The fence should be constructed of good-quality wood and treated with non-toxic preservative to give protection against the weather and to discourage horses from chewing it. The top rail should be level with the top of the posts, which should be cut on a slope to allow rain to run off. If able, the rails should be attached to the inner portion of the posts. This will keep the horse from colliding into the posts when galloping around. It also prevents him from forcing a rail off if he is leaning or rubbing his body against it. A tall, thick hedge, as long as it is not poisonous, can serve as a wonderful barrier. Beech and hazel are rather good since horses refuse to gnaw on them. Unlike a regular fence, a hedge will provide the horse with shelter during periods of inclement weather. However, it does require regular trimming, in order to remain in good, running order. If gaps in the hedge begin to form, they must be fenced off. Arguably, the best boundary of the bunch is a mixture of the two: a dense hedge with a post and rail fence that runs directly in front of it. A cheaper, and highly less attractive barrier may be crafted with wire mesh. The mesh should have small, V-shaped openings so that there is no way for the horse to catch his foot in one of the holes. The fencing needs to be put up professionally, to greatly reduce, and even prevent the fence from sagging over time. It is also likely to stretch when something, such as a horse, leans up against it. Plain wire fencing will serve as a good barrier, as long as it is constructed with care. It should consist of four or five strands of wire attached to stout wooden posts, with strainers at the corners to keep them taut. An alternative, and one which makes the fence more easily visible to the horse, is to use a wooden rail in place of the top strand of wire. The strands of wire should be some 12 inches (30cm) apart and the placing of the lowest strand is particularly important. It should be about 18 inches (46 cm) above the ground. Any lower and the horse may put a leg through the strands and become caught up; any higher and he may be tempted to put his head underneath. Plain wire is preferable as compared to barbed wire, for obvious reasons. If the latter must be used, then it must be kept absolutely taut- loose wire can cause terrible injuries to any horse who becomes caught up in it. Horses may also break their skin, and free their blood, if they rub their bodies up against the barbs. Stone walls also tend to contain horses fairly well, provided they are both sturdy and high enough- the walls should be a minimal four feet (1.2m) high, otherwise, the horses can easily jump out. Similar to a hedge, a stone wall will offer the horses some protection from the weather. Cara turned the page, and found a simple checklist. It read: Safety Checklist- -Make regular checks of all field boundaries -If any portion of the boundary breaks, fix it immediately -Wire fencing should be left taut at all times -Set the lowest strand of a wire fence 18 inches (46cm) above the ground -Block off all gaps in both hedges and stout fencing, never utilize loose strands of wire -Never utilize sheep or pig netting, horses tend to put their feet through squares of wire, and may become tangled in it, or caught -Never use sheep posts, with sharp, upward pointing ends -Fence off areas that pose a potential threat, or danger, such as uneven ground or ditches -Avoid metal fence posts, they will do far more damage than wooden ones should a horse collide with them OOCA continuation... The same book, by Judith Draper, has been used as a reference.

[Cara]

Gateways- Access to a good grazing field is ideal, and highly important. Gateways must be wide enough to allow not only horses to pass through them with ease, but various, unwieldy tools as well, such as wagons filled with extra food, etc. In the name of safety, it is best if a field's gate is kept away from busy roads. Gates crafted of wood or metal are both suitable for a horse's paddock. However, they should all have crossbars, for added strength. It is ideal for a gate to be crafted by an expert, to be sure that it does not sag over time, drag against the ground when swinging open or closed, or swing once it is latched closed. Gates should open easily, otherwise, a horse may attempt to push his way out of the paddock, while its master is still trying to make his or her way out. The safest way to hang a gate would have it be to swing open inwards, into the horse's pasture. This will keep the horse from pushing it open, as soon as one unfastens the catch. A wooden gate should be heavy and solidly built and, like fencing, should be treated with preservative... Gateposts need to be very strong and should be set about three feet (90cm) into the ground, with hard-packed mud to keep them firm. They will need strong hinges, and a catch which a horse will be incapable of unfastening with the use of its teeth. The catch, however, should be easy for any of Mizahar's races to open with one of their hands. Well... except for ghosts perhaps. There should not be any protrusion- a hook or other fastening- upon which a horse may injure itself. The stealing of horses is not uncommon, making it essential to secure all gates. Using a strong chain with a pad lock, fit into both ends so that potential thieves cannot simply lift the gate off of its hinges. If you can, avoid climbing over the top of the gate, in order to get in and out of the paddock, for this weakens the gate. If you have to, however, always climb over the end with the hinge; quickly. During weather in which the ground becomes moist, the gateways quickly become poached by horses being taken in and out on a daily basis or simply pacing up and down waiting to be fed. If possible, gates should be situated on well-drained ground, and not in a muddy hollow. Below the bit on fences was another safety checklist, it read: -Check the gates regularly -Replace or repair worn or damaged catches/hinges immediately -Keep gates securely fastened, using chains and padlocks on both ends -Never fasten gates with bits of rope or string- horses can bite through them and they are easily removed by thieves -Avoid gates less than 6 feet (1.8m) wide- horses can easily bang themselves up, especially their hips, and move through the gate -Avoid gates that open directly onto a main road or path, it can be dangerous leading a horse directly into traffic. It will also make theft easier to carry out -Never use flimsy metal gates, they may easily be bent and damaged, if not broken -Avoid rusty metal gates, horses may injure themselves upon them -Avoid straining gates by climbing over them -Avoid feeding horses close to the gateway, the ground will quickly become poached in winter Cara turned the page of her book, to a section upon the subject of shelters. It read: When wild and free, horses use natural occurrences, such as rocks and trees to protect themselves from the elements, and escape flies. Thus, for horses left in a paddock, it is essential that they too, are able to find a form of protection from the elements. Most domesticated horses, if not all of them, retain their natural instincts to shelter themselves beside a hedge, or beneath a tree if the weather gets rough. They tend to do this over choosing to go inside a nearby manmade structure. However, not all paddocks have natural shelter, so in some cases, a more unnatural one may be the only alternative. Horses tend to be happiest when in the company of other horses, thus, field shelters need to be large enough where they can accommodate more than one horse, without risking squabbling or overcrowding. The shelter should be kept on terrain which drains well, whenever possible. If this is not at all possible, the floor of the shelter, and the area adjacent to it, may require a hard surface. The shelter should be built with its back to Zulrav's whistling wind. It should be well crafted, built strong, and treated with natural preservatives. The ceilings should be fairly high so that the horse's heads have enough room. So that they will not bump them, and acquire an injury. It should slope towards the back of the shelter, so that rainwater flows away from the shelter's entrance. Open-fronted shelters are the safest, because it is easy for a horse to escape should he be bullied by a companion. Any fixtures and fittings, such as mangers, hay racks, etc., must be strongly made and fitted at a good height from the ground, again to prevent injury. Everything should be checked regularly and repaired whenever such a thing is needed. Some types of smaller field shelter are designed with a bottom door which, when closed, converts the shelter into a stable. Such a commodity may prove useful if no other stabling is available, and you on occasion, need to leave your horse or pony indoors. It may also be used to isolate your companion, should he contract a contagious disease, for example. A slightly less costly shelter can be provided with the use of a wooden screen, which would be created in conjunction with the fencing. Windbreak screens need to be about 6 feet 6 inches (2m) high and can either be straight or double sided, using a corner of the field. Multi-angled screens, affording protection from different directions, can be built free standing in the open away from the fencing. OOCSame sources, same rules.

[Cara]

Cara turned the page. It read: Poisonous Plants, Shrubs and Trees Some forms of vegetation which may prove murderous to a horse include: 1- Buttercups: poisonous only when eaten in large quantities 2- Yew: all parts of it are poisonous. A small quantity, of eleven pounds or so, is enough to kill a horse 3- Ragwort: Tall and easily recognized by its bright yellow flowers, ragwort poisons a horse's liver. The effects of the poison appear to be cumulative, small doses which are ingested over a great length of time can be just as deadly as a large amount eaten over the course of a few days, or even, just a single day. There is no specific treatment if a horse is poisoned by ragwort, causing the effects to usually, be fatal 4- Foxgloves: About a 1/4 of a pound, (100g), may prove fatal to a horse. If a horse has been poisoned via foxglove, it may convulse and struggle to breath. It will die within a matter of hours 5- Hemlock: Only 5-10 pounds are needed to kill a horse 6- Nightshade: Everything in the family 7- Monkshood 8- Horsetails 9- Rhododendron: A small amount will cause a horse to die of respiratory failure 10- Oleander Laburnum: The seeds are the most poisonous to a horse 11- Box 12- Privet 13- Laurel 14- Yew: In small quantities, no cure 15- Meadow Saffron: the poison found in this plant takes time to build up in a horse's system, by which time, the horse will be beyond anyone's help 16- Bracken: the effects of this poison are cumulative, and cause poor growth, lack of coordination, etc. 17- Acorns: thus, it is best to keep oak trees away from a horse's paddock Below the list of poisonous vegetation was a simple, safety checklist. It read: Safety Checklist: -Make sure you are able to recognize poisonous plants and trees -Before placing your horse in a new paddock, be sure to inspect the grounds, grassland, and hedges for any signs of poisonous plants -Dig up and burn poisonous plants -If a poisonous trees rests within the paddock, and cannot be removed, fence off the area. Be sure that the tree is well out of your animal's reach -Check your paddocks and hedges regularly, note that poisonous plants can spread from neighboring areas -Never leave poisonous plants which have been dug up lying around the paddock, many plants, such as ragwort, are far more palatable to a horse when they have wilted or perished -Practice good pasture management: a good, dense sward of grass will help prevent poisonous plants from spreading -If there are poisonous trees in the vicinity, keep an eye open for fallen twigs and or branches, especially when experiencing windy weather -If your horse's paddock is adjacent to a garden or series of gardens, make regular checks for clippings which may have been dumped over the fence by their owners, for they may contain poisonous vegetation Upon completing the page, Cara turned to the next one. It read: Water- Horses and ponies which are left out in the pasture, must have continual access to a fresh, clean supply of water. A natural supply of running water, such as that found by a stream is ideal. Although one should be careful, for there is always a chance that it may be polluted. If the water is clean, then the animals may have access to it, as long as the base of the stream or river is gravel. For if it is comprised of sand, horse's may accidently ingest the small beige grains, along with their water. The path taken to the drinking area should be relatively clean, and on fairly flat terrain. Steep banks simply will not do, since the horses will slip and then cascade down the bank. At which point, they may collapse. If the stream is too narrow, water may cease to flow after a time. Any fencing that crosses the stream or river must be checked regularly to ensure that horses cannot escape from their paddock by wandering off along the waterway. Streams which are not free flowing in summer are not suitable, since the water will tend to become stagnant. Any area which contains a polluted stream or river, stagnant pond, or boggy area should be fenced off. Horses and ponies should not be allowed access to any location of the like. If running water is not an option, the alternative is a container crafted by one of Mizahar's many races. A galvanized water trough, purpose-built, fed by mains water and controlled by a ballcock provides an efficient water supply, although there is always the problem of pipes freezing in winter. The feed pipe needs to be buried to a suitable depth and the length of pipe which is above ground will need to be well lagged. The ballcock should be encased within something, so that horses may not damage it. If such a thing is not at all possible, a trough may be filled by a hosepipe, or even by pail or bucket. Troughs such as this, however, with static water, will need to be baled out at least once a week, and then refilled. Smaller containers, such as stone sinks and plastic tubs could also be utilized, although they require baling on a more regular basis. The advantage to a smaller container, however, lies in the fact that they are far easier to clean than larger containers, and may be transfered from one portion of the paddock to another with relative ease. This helps to prevent wear and tear upon the terrain. The disadvantage to a smaller container, however, exists within their weight. They are far more easily knocked over than a larger container. It is best if water troughs are left parallel to the fence. Horses and ponies need a lot to drink, so the path up to the trough will be used constantly. It should be hard terrain, perhaps coated with mud bricks, or the like. Below that was a safety checklist, it read: -The horse's water supply should be checked daily -Bale out and wash all water containers at least once a week -During severely inclement weather, be prepared to break ice upon the surface of the water at least two to three times a day -Fence off all areas that contain sources of stagnant water -Never place a water trough under deciduous trees or near a hedge where leaves, twigs and seeds can taint it -Avoid placing troughs in the middle of fields where they can become a source of injury -Recess water troughs into the line of the fence to minimize projections and the risk of injury -Keep the water trough as close to the fence as possible. If it is placed a few inches in front of it, a horse may trap its leg between the trough and the fence -Avoid using containers that have rough edges or potentially treacherous projections Cara turned the page. OOCSame resources, same rules.

[Gossamer]

Moderator Note: Regurgitated info from a book does not a story make. Most modern horse info....pipes etc is not tech appropriate. There is zero rp in this thread past the first post other than your PC just turning pages. Unless this thread is turned into ACTUAL RP that involves study, it won't be eligible for any XP whatsoever because its just cut and paste or paraphrasing from resources. This thread is not rp. Please PM me when this thread has been modified. Storytellers, do not award XP to threads like these unless you talk to me first and they've been significantly changed.