Solo Robes of Importance

In which Rosela delves into her very important, and very expensive, Sanctuary Project.

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Built into the cliffs overlooking the Suvan Sea, Riverfall resides on the edge of grasslands of Cyphrus where the Bluevein River plunges off the plain and cascades down to the inland sea below. Home of the Akalak, Riverfall is a self-supporting city populated by devoted warriors. [Riverfall Codex]

Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 10:14 pm

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Timestamp: 16th of Autumn, 513AV

Rather than spread the project out over several days, Rosela resolved to leave it for her next day off. The Sanctuary Project, as she'd dubbed it in her mind, had nearly consumed her thoughts, and she found it difficult to work on anything else. She couldn't work on it during work hours, however, where every customer who walked in would see it. Kavala Denusk had paid for secrecy, and she would get it.

Pulling out the scrap paper she'd used on Kavala's visit, which already contained the price ladder and sketch of the sleeve stone pattern, she boxed off a section of the bottom for a supply list. Some of it she had, some she would need to run out for. There were the beads, of which she had enough for a single robe; the extra strength bead thread, which she needed to not only figure out, but buy as well; the leather itself, which would need to be bought in stupendous bulk in order to make sure it was all the same color; and the silk lining, which she already had. She'd planned on using the midnight blue; it was too winter a color to be popularly used, and on top of that, silk didn't typically sell well in the winter months.

She didn't want her planning time to be too idle, so she pulled over a large bundle of pinned fabric that would eventually become a dress. Staring at the supply list, she absently lay the fabric across her lap and found the edge. Her hands threaded the needle automatically and began her backstitches with minimal effort.

She'd already put in a special order for the leather, and had been told it would be ready that day. Loads of Leather had been shocked at the amount she wanted, but her lie, that she wanted all the black leather of her shop to be a uniform color, had passed over well. It was an interesting thought even as truth - buying in bulk to avoid the inevitable variations in dying.

In and out the needle passed, two hands holding the fabric taut and two hands passing the needle back and forth through it. She pushed it in one side, pulled the thread through, pushed it back in the other side, pulled though again, moved down for the next stitch, and repeated.

The beads themselves would require no effort other than the painstaking task of sorting sizes. The bigger stones would go on the bottom, and the smallest would go at the top. When she requested more, it would be more convenient if she could get them pre-sorted into different bags of sizes.

She was nearing the end of her thread already, and she diverted her attention to quickly finishing up the backstitches and knotting it off. Another thread was knotted onto the needle and she resumed the stitching.

There was another material, which inserted itself into her mind like walking out the door without eyeliner. Batting. Would the robes be of pure leather and silk, as Kavala had implied, or use some batting material between the layers? The robes shouldn't be too warm, so any potential batting would have to be minimal. She didn't have enough of her thin batting to do twenty robes, but it was easy enough to get ahold of. However, should she use it at all? In the 'for' category, it would make the robes a little more substantial and on the inside, would hide the leather seams and the knots behind the silk. In the 'against' category, Kavala hadn't asked for it and...that was it. It wouldn't raise the price at all, and if she didn't want it, the stuff would be easy to remove with some careful stitch breaking along the lining.

The end opposite end of the dress was reached, and rather than start pinning up the hem, she folded it up, and put it away. It was time to start the real work for the day.
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Last edited by Rosela on November 9th, 2013, 3:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 10:15 pm

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Her first thought even while learning of how the robes would be built were about what thread she would use to tie the beads on. They would need something quite strong, as she didn't want the beads starting to fall off only a season after use. Her waxed linen thread came to mind, as it was what she used to sew on sturdy buttons, but she wondered if even that would be strong enough. Silk thread was strong, but she knew it would stretch over time. She also had a spool of fishing line for really tough jobs. Then again, these were fine leather robes... Presumably, the wearers wouldn't be crawling around on the ground and constantly pulling at the buttons, and the beads wouldn't be getting even as much traffic as buttons. The waxed linen was looking like the best option.

With a pair of loops, she knotted off her thread at the end of the dress and reknotted the thread to begin on the other side. Shifting her hand placements, she wondered how two-armed seamstresses even kept up with their work. She was struggling to keep up with her inventory even with her many hands at work.

The final piece was the silk interior. How it would interact with the bead stitching required some thought. She disliked having expanses of lining fabric without periodic anchor stitches to make sure it stayed in place. For smaller pieces like jackets, the outer edges were fine, but entire robes? The beads would allow her to make an extraordinary amount of anchor stitches, but that would expose the thread to the inside of the robe, where it would rub and possibly break.

Pausing in her stitching, she reached out a free hand and picked up her pencil. In soft lines, she marked on her sketch of the robe where the seams would go. Obviously up the sides, front, under the cowl, and under the arms, but should she have a fabric line at the waist? The waist was hidden in Kavala's original sketch, leaving it up to Rosela's judgement. Without waist stitching, the robes looked very loose, clearly intended to go over one's normal clothing. With waist stitching, they would be more well-fitted, but would look bulky if worn with the front clasped over regular clothing. Maybe a belt instead? Something black and inconspicuous, and the beltloops would allow her to include the necessary anchoring for the lining. The braid could easily be of braided silk, the same material in the lining, and the ability to loosen and tighten would make the robes only as fitted as the wearer wanted.

Leaning back in her chair, she resumed stitching the dress, moving back and forth in the rhythmic motions of the backstitch, pushing the needle in, pulling through, pushing back, and pulling through. That seemed to be it regarding the planning stages. The leather, the beads, the lining...not much to it.
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 10:17 pm

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"Just set it down over there, thanks." Rosela smiled sweetly at the bulky Akalak hauling the rolls of black leather.

"Uh, here?"

"That's wonderful." As he turned to set the rolls gently on the open mat in the corner, Rosela tilted discreetly to admire the way his pants tightened over his behind. They were a lovely fit. As he straightened, so did she, flipping her hair casually over one shoulder. "Thank you so, so much, I don't know how I would have gotten all those here by myself."

He rolled his shoulders with a crooked smile as he looked down at her. "I couldn't just let a little lady carry a heavy load like that all the way here."

"What ever shall I do to repay you?"

"You could buy me a drink?"

Her mock-affronted look had just enough realism to it to make him raise an eyebrow. "Buy you a drink?"

He laughed openly, showing a line of pearly white teeth in stark contrast to his deep violet skin. "How about you let me buy you one then?"

"Now that I like." Swinging over, she hooked two arms around his bicep, still bulging from the effort of carrying eight heavy rolls of leather all the way across town. "But, I'm afraid it'll have to wait until later." Delicately, she started leading him towards the door. "I just just got a shipment of beautiful black leather in for an order with a very tight deadline."

"What a tragedy. I should have insisted on stopping at the Kulkukan when we passed."

"Maybe, but then we'd have been there all night, and I would have never gotten my work done." She opened the door for him, leaning her hip against the edge.

"You know what they say about all work and no play..." Stepping out the door, he leaned against the frame, pulling his face close to hers.

"Makes me...a very..." She moved her face close to his, enunciating each word. "Rich girl. Try me later today." One hand pressed her fingertips into his collarbone and gently pushed him outwards, his face set in a sly grin.

"Alright, alright. Be seeing you."

Rosela waggled her fingers at him as she shut the door, making sure to sway her hips a littke extra as she walked back to the workroom.
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 10:18 pm

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Supplies bought and a little fresh air refreshing her, Rosela sank back into her work chair and crossed her legs on top of a box as she contemplated Kavala's measurement sheet. She'd work on one of the female measurements, so Kavala could presumably try the robe on when she came. It seemed like such a large undertaking that Rosela wasn't quite sure where to start...

Except she knew exactly where to start; it was where she always started. Pin and cut the fabric, pin it up, and sew it. This project was different however, and not just because of the sheer amount of mizas at stake. These robes screamed importance, and her ego screamed at her to make sure every detail was in place. She hadn't worried this much about a project since designing Sava Chivan's wardrobe.

Forcing herself to get up and out of the chair, she hauled up the first roll of black leather, grunting when she found it heavier than she expected. Rolling it out onto her measuring board, she pressed the outline of the pieces into the leather, pinned it down, double checked her measurements, and began cutting. Getting into the familiar act of creating eased her thoughts, and she soon forgot all about the fact that she was working on the Sanctuary Project, and settled into her usual routine of cursing the leather she was forced to work with. The leather she was using was soft enough that it wasn't nearly as bad as her usual experiences with the material, but she couldn't help but wish it was nice and easy like cotton.

Gathering up the cutout pieces, she set them to the side, and retrieved the first bolt of her blue silk. Repeating the process of measuring and cutting, she paired each panel of leather with its silk counterpart and clipped them together so she wouldn't get confused. Pulling up her roll of batting, she cut panels of that as well, but stacked them to the side so the fibers wouldn't get all over the leather and silk.

Stopping for a moment, she placed her hands around the pile of leather and silk and considered the situation of the beltloops. She could take the easy way out and cut slats in the sides, and thread the belt through those. It would retain the streamline look, and the loops themselves would last longer. However, they ran the risk of looking cheap. Traditional belt loops were usually a safe bet, though she was ever-worried about them wearing out too soon. With a silk belt though, they wouldn't be encountering too much friction, and such a small belt size would allow her to make small enough beltloops so as to preserve the overall streamline look. With a moment's consideration, she grabbed her ruled and began pressing it into a large piece of of the scrap leather. Proper beltloops it would be.
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 10:18 pm

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Sewing the liner was easy, and Rosela wondered halfway through if she shouldn't have left it for later to be a breather between sewing leather panels. As a break from backstitching, she ran up the sides with a straight stitch, moving constantly shifting her hands to make sure the fabric was straight. As easy as it was to sew, silk was slippery and easy to go crooked on. One side done, she immediately ran another straight stitch along each of the seam allowances, to keep out the fraying. A quick run of the pinking shears along each side and she flipped the entire affair over to repeat it on the other side.

Once the liner was done, she folded it an set it aside, mentally preparing herself for the challenge that would be the leather. Sewing on the beads would be easier while the panels were still separate, but it would take even more time just to make sure each line was even.

Clamping together each leather panel, she dug out her leather needle and threaded it. She made a quick, but firm deal with herself that she would treat herself to a nice lunch, but only after she got through at least the right side, sleeve, and hood beforehand.

She knew she wanted to do lapped seams for the side, but took a moment to consider which seams would not be lapped, and which sides would be on top. After some quick clamping and pressing, she started with the bottom of the left side, and pushed topstitches through the leather one by one up the entire length. Screwing the leather needle through the fabric wore her hand out quickly, but with periodic breaks she made it through. With a sigh, she realized she would need to alternate hands at some point; her hands simply weren't strong enough to do twenty leather robes on a single hand.

Returning to the bottom of the right side, she flipped the panels right side out, and worked through her second line of topstitches to finish the lapping. By the end, the edge looked nearly seamless, with the black thread she'd chosen against the black leather. Lapped seams were tough as well, so there wouldn't be any problem with seams coming apart.

She used her standard backstitch under the arms, as the lapped stitch wouldn't have been flexible enough, and left the hems bare for now. She'd need them when it came time to put in the liner. Putting aside the now-sewn leather panels, she picked up the pair for the hood and paused to consider her seam options. A whipstitch would allow maximum looseness, but a lapped stitch would allow the hood to stay on the head in a stiffer position. Serging would make it even more seamless, but it wasn't great for durability... Opting for the middle ground, she continued with a backstitch, ignoring her stomach protesting the lateness of her lunch.

By the time she finished, she nearly threw down the leather and bolted from the shop, heading right for the Kulkukan Tavern.
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Rosela
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 10:19 pm

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Rosela counted herself lucky that she hadn't met her new leather-hauling friend there, as she stepped back into the shop with a paper box of food. She was progressing through the process well on time, and wondered if she'd even be able to do the beads that day instead of leaving them for another.

As much as she loathed getting back to stitching, she pulled the heap of leather back into her lap and rethreaded her leather needle. She clamped the left side of the robe in preparation for the lapped stitches, and began the repetitive process of the topstitches. After the second line was finished, she ran quickly through the sleeve's stitches and removed the last of the clamps.

Next up were the beltloops, which would be miserable, painful work and she knew it. Pulling up the four rectangles of leather, she folded each in half and whipstitched them closed. Opening up the tiny leather tubes, she then pressed them so that they lay flat and the seams would be hidden in the back of the loops. For nearly a bell, she ran painstaking topstitches along each side of the beltloop, to lock the flat shape in place. Lastly, before stitching each loop onto the robe, in positions she marked with impressions from her ruler, she threw her entire weight into pressing a half inch hem on the tops and bottoms. Getting them onto the robe was painful, requiring her to drill her leather needle through five layers of leather, but another bell later, the beltloops were in.

The robe was mostly together now, and Rosela opened it up to take a look. Despite the raw edges, the expanse of black leather did look very dramatic, and she swung it over her own shoulders experimentally. The leather was soft enough that it didn't necessarily need the silk interior, but over time, the leather would wear and make the silk a good investment. Kavala had clearly put a lot of thought into the robes, and Rosela once again wondered what they were actually for.

Unable to come up with any new theories, Rosela pulled the robe off again and picked up the hood and cowl. These would be the most physically difficult to attach, and she'd left extra seam allowances around the collar to ease the difficulty. Detached, the hood looked unusually large, but she told herself it would be okay. She'd made it a little large to make sure it came forward across the face far enough, given the secretive look of the original sketch. Given that it was lined with silk as well, the hood would need to have a little extra weight in the front to make sure it didn't just slide off the head.

The hood was made up of three panels, to make the shape as round as possible. There were few things that could make a quality cloak look horrendous as a pointy top because the maker couldn't be bothered to round it off. Rethreading her needle, she attached the hood to the cowl first, leaving a half an inch of seam allowance on the cowl to attach it to the rest of the robe. She left an additional allowance at the inner edges of the cowl for the hemming that even now, she still debated on whether to do. Sturdy backstitches held it in place, and Rosela paused after passing the threshold of each panel to stretch her hand.

Soon enough it was fully attached, and she clamped the cowl to the neckline of the robe. Backstitches secured this as well, each clamp coming off with a triumphant flourish. A final knot at the end and she clipped the excess allowance off, so as not to push too far through the batting.

Standing up and clearing off her workdesk, putting the folded silk on her chair, she opened the cloak spread-eagle on the desk. The beads were up next, and would be the most time consuming part of the whole process. Pulling out a handful of stones from the, she set them on the cloak where they'd be knotted on, judging the lay of the gradient. Pulling out the bobbin of waxed linen, She looked from the expanse of leather to the bag of stone beads and sighed dejectedly.
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Last edited by Rosela on November 9th, 2013, 4:00 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Rosela
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 10:19 pm

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It was fully dark outside by the time she made the final knot. Rosela's shoulders ached miserably, and she still had the lining to go. Her movements were slow as she moved the iron the press the bottom hem. She was tired, but she forced herself to not listen to the small voice telling her to give up and go home. She wasn't that tired, not enough to give up. The beads were on, and they looked fantastic if she could say so, and all that was left was to sew in the lining and put on the front clasps. She heaved the leather over, the clinks of the stones against her work table loud in the dark.

The iron pressed slowly along the length of the bottom hem, her resolve slowly draining away the sleepiness. She could do this, she could finish this robe. Feeding the bottom of the silk and the batting under the bottom hem, she pinned the rest of the lining and batting in place, making sure to smooth everything straight. The fabric buckling or going in crooked would be the absolute last thing she wanted to see. She threaded her leather needle resolutely and took a steadying breath. Slowly, stitch by stitch, a line of topstitches ran across the leather hem, locking the silk and batting in place.

When she was done, she popped her needle into the pincushion and tested the strength of the bottom hem. It was 'fine'...but it needed to be better. Whipping out the needle again, she ran another line of topstitches a quarter inch underneath the first, making her feel much more confident about the sturdiness.

The process was repeated along the center hem, though the iron pressing was already done, as she'd done it to put the clasps in. A double line of topstitching was placed here as well, as this seam would be enduring a lot of traffic. After she was done, she tested every clasp to make sure they were still straight.

Knowing she was approaching the finish line, her tiredness was bothering her less with every chime. Reaching through the sleeves, she pulled the liner through each, careful not to catch her nails on the knots behind the stones. She was fairly proud of herself for the sleeve stone design, it had turned out lovely. The lining on the sleeve would be stitched in differently, to allow more movement of the liner separate from the leather. Instead of feeding the liner under the cuff hem, she sewed a rim of topstitching along the leather hem alone, leaving a half inch of seam allowance free.

Then, folding a hem into the silk around the batting, she folded the sleeve outwards with another pair of hands, and sewed the edge of the silk hem, with the batting, to the leather with a pad stitch. The long running stitch base would keep it in place, and the perpendicular stitches would keep the slight billow the layering would eventually produce. Knotting off the end of her stitch, she flipped out the finished sleeve and ran her fingers over the slight puffiness around the sleeve lining appreciatively.
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 11:46 pm

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After duplicating the process on the other sleeve, Rosela moved with excitement onto the hood. She'd left a half inch of seam allowance after sewing on the cowl, specifically for the hood, so all that was left was to line the hood and sew it on. She was nearly there!

Unlike the rest of the robe, the lining in the hood needed to stay put, and would be anchored to the seam of the hood at two points. Pushing the silk flat into the hood, forgoing the batting for this one section, she first made a loose knot from the seam allowance on the silk to that of the leather, where the back of the head would sit. Testing the strength of the knots, she pulled it gently before settling it back to be hemmed fully in.

Like the bottom and center hems, she fed the lining under the leather hem and smoothed it down before locking it in place with a line of topstitches. A double line of stitching would make the hood too stiff, so after the first, she knotted it off and tested it for strength.

Hands slowly withdrawing, she felt as though she were forgetting something. She nervously lifted every hem up for inspection, looking for loose threads or bunching of the fabric. She found none, and slowly laid it back on the table. Suddenly seizing the cowl in a fit, she furiously fought with herself over her decision to hem it. The leather was of fine quality, she didn't need to have added the hemming...but leaving it unhemmed would have looked unfinished and out of place, given that every other corner was hemmed and polished.

The arguments were only repeats of the same ones she'd made when she'd actually hemmed it, so she dropped it. The stones scraped against her work table as she pulled the robe up to inspect the stones. Her fingers ran hard over the stones, satisfied that not a single one jingled on its knotting. Slowly, she laid it back on the desk.

She was done. The first robe of...twenty...was done.
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Robes of Importance

Postby Rosela on November 8th, 2013, 11:47 pm

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Looking up, she stared out the small, high window, currently displaying a section of the star-speckled sky. She was tired, sore, and every one of her fingers ached. Her original plan of tying in all of the stones on a different day was entirely the best one. She couldn't go through this twenty days this season.

Groaning, she collapsed into her chair and stared at the glittering robe. It really was a beautiful thing, and she once again regretted that she would not be able to claim the work as her own. Perhaps Kavala would at least tell the recipients she'd made them?

"What do you guys think? You like it?" She asked into the darkness.

"We are partial to the colors."

Rosela barked a laugh. "I figured you would. Too bad there's no fashion industry for shadows."

"Physical appearance is not a concern purely of those with corporeal beings. It is not uncommon for ghosts to find themselves preoccupied with their appearance."

"Really? I wonder if there's a way to get in on the ghost fashion market..."

The shadows did not answer, and Rosela could only yawn and stretch in the darkness.
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Robes of Importance

Postby Taylani on November 14th, 2013, 3:31 pm

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Rosela
Skills :
+3 planning
+2 Fashion Design
+5 sewing
+3 beading
+1 flirting
+2 leatherworking

Lores :
Job for Kavala
Beading: Wax Linen thread for sturdiness
Flirting: Never too busy to play a little.
Sewing: Traditional belt loops wore out fast
Gnosis: Shadows really like Black

Notes :
PM me with any concerns about your grade, and don’t forget to delete/edit the grade request


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