Solo [Solo] Lazy Writing

[Ascen]

24 Summer, 516 AV

"I don't see why i have to write about snow hares when i already know about them..." Ascen mumbled to himself under the common tongue as he sat at one of the well worn chairs with a small wooden table before him. Ascen was sent to Stories in the Snow, or in short its the Avanthal's library, so that the young lad can concentrate better while writing down about the Talderan Snow Hares. Of course the boy is not going to understand the purpose of this project other than he was told to do this. When living in the Frostfawn Hold and surrounded by animals of all kinds it is almost required to learn more about these animals.

Starting off with the basics as Ascen grabs his quill and lightly dips it into the vial of ink that was given to him for temporary use. 'The Talderan Snow Hares are valued highly in the market for their beautiful snow white pelts, yet as like any other valued creature it has the tendency to be difficult to capture. These wonderous creatures stand at an average of 3 feet tall that's including the ears. Their fur is not only valued in the market, but it is also thick that insulates them against the harsh climate. One of their infamous traits is that these hares possess keen senses that are meant to search for food under the snow, yet it also has a multifunctionality that alerts them of approaching predators. Allowing them to be able to avoid such creatures with their superior speed. Hence is another reason why hunters find it difficult to capture the snow hares.'

Ascen takes a break from writing by setting the quill down beside the parchment paper. Taking a deep breath to help him sooth the mind so that he won't get a headache from thinking too much. Another thing was to let his wrist relax for he could feel the tension building up from writing. Once Ascen had the couple minute break to catch his breath, the lad picks up the quill once again and dips into the vial for more ink before continuing to write. 'During the spring and summer is generally when the hares start to burrow themselves underneath the snow in large groups. Its possible that the reason why they do this is to both protect them from predators and to stay in cold temperatures during these two seasons. But its unconfirmed as to why they burrow themselves during the spring and the summer. At the beginning of the Fall season is when the snow hares emerge from their burrows and begin pairing up. Its safe to say that this is the mating season for the snow hares as the females generally give birth around the beginning of Winter. Additionally it doesn't take no longer than 3 months before these hares become fully grown. Their lifespans are currently unknown as well, but hopefully with further study more information can be found about these innocent creatures.'

With that final stroke his quill, Ascen had finished writing about the Talderan Snow Hares. Setting the quill back down after wiping the ink away on his shirt, leaving a light gray stain on his white shirt before quirking the vial of ink to keep it from being dried up. "Did i get everything...?" Ascen mumbled to himself as he reads over what he has written. To be honest his handwriting is a mess, though that's what happens when one doesn't really practice to write. Then that's when something clicked inside of the boy's mind where he finally figured out what it was that his teachers was trying to get him to do. "Oh, i see... they wanted me to practice my writing because its so terrible. Well i can see what they mean if they were to criticize me about it that's for sure." Even he thought that his writing was terrible, and he definitely knew that his supervisors wouldn't even take it from him. Granted he does possess intelligence thank the gods, but his writing needs to be worked on the boy realized.

[Ascen]

Ascen's fingers were hurting from all of the writing he had done as the familiar scent of books fills his nostrils. It honestly encouraged his young mind to read something since its not everyday that he gets to visit the library. Though that's really not anyone's fault since Ascen never really gotten interested in reading from here. Perhaps it was because that the boy felt more at home over at the Frostfawn hold? Ascen doesn't really know to be honest, but thing he can do is get up to browse the books.

First the boy made sure that the paper he was using was folded up neatly into a 3 by 3 inch square so that it'll be easier for him to tuck into the pocket of his pants. Then he picks up the quill and the small vial in his left hand so that no one would mistaken it to be someone else's. Simultaneously the boy stands up on his feet and begins his browsing through the library. The books were old even to Ascen's young eyes of soft liquid gold through a brief analysis of the binding. In truth Ascen feels like this library could use some more books that didn't look like it was going to fall part just by looking at it.

Then Ascen discovered something that made the boy's young heart pulsing with excitement. The object that he discovered was a book that provides detail about the Falconry, or at least it apparently gives information about the tools. When Ascen took the book down, the boy realized how thin the book was so it was more of a manual than anything else. Nevertheless the boy opened the book and began to read. The first of the tools in Falconry is the Hood. The Hood is to help keep the bird calm while in the presence of humans. Though Ascen honestly never really had that problem to begin with other than it makes sense why some members of the Frostfawn Hold wear hoods around their birds.

Second part of the Falconry is the Mew which is a unique cage for the birds to be placed in when not traveling. Its always best to have a couple of perches since most birds like to hop from one perch to the other or simply to move around the cage easier. Can't really have a bird that's always on the bottom of the cage since it usually has the instincts to get higher. The third main tool of Falconry is the Falconer's Gloves that comes in varies sizes. Ranging from small, for small birds and hawks, to large gloves that is meant for larger birds such as the eagle and full grown hawks.

[Ascen]

Once Ascen has read what each tool's purpose is for, the boy is now going to have the time of his life learning how each tool is set up. First up is the Mews that details both of how a Mews should function and determine what appropriate size the Mews has to be for comfortable space to the bird. 'The overall design of the facilities to keep the bird must take both the bird and the falconer into consideration. A falconer with hundreds of acres of relatively flat land without restrictions from zoning boards may decide to build very large flight cages for each bird. A falconer in a suburban environment may have a very small mews to meet the legal requirements and keep the bird in the house or garage weathering her in the yard every day. A falconer with a Kestrel can keep her in fine condition in a 3' x 3' x 3' box with shelf perches and barring on two sides. This sort of mews can be kept on a table in the house, in the garage, or outside, even. A falconer with a Red-Tailed Hawk might want a mews that is 8' x 10' x 8' wanting to freeloft her, and will be able to keep her in perfect feather. There are a million ways to keep a bird healthy and in great condition, and more than a million ways she will find to damage a feather or injure herself. Good falconers will look for many options, try something out, and observe how it works for him ready to make changes as necessary.'

'The first consideration is the bird's safety. A mews must be completely enclosed not just to keep the bird in, and preferably in the most private area available. It must be enclosed to keep other animals out. Neighborhood dogs, coyotes, eagles, and other animals will all take advantage of a bird. Even cats can inflict enough damage to a large bird to mortally wound it. The first concern is the bird's safety. If one is making a weathering yard where the bird will spend the vast majority of her time unwatched, then it must be completely enclosed either with wire or a roof structure. For a small falcon like a Kestrel, a dog exercise pen is portable and allows the bird to be safe from most potential harm while being low impact on the falconer. For larger birds a larger structure will be needed.'

'One very common aspect to a mews is a two-door entry system. This is more typical with a free-lofted bird where there is the potential for a bird to fly out if the door is mishandled. Having a two door system reduces the likelihood of this from happening. Many falconers who use the two door system take advantage of the space between the doors to make a storage room or otherwise use the space well. If there is no way to implement a two door system, consider using a heavy canvas or duck cloth drape to act as a second door. Even a clear shower curtain will allow Ascen to view the bird as the boy enters, but make sure she is not able to get past him or attack him. Some falconers have both a two door system as well as a door drape. A note to make the inner mews door open into the mews and not into the preparation area. The reason for this is, again, to help control the bird's ability to get past the falconer or attack him.'

Asen's head was spinning with all of this new information, for yes he didn't expect there to be so much information and factors just to consider getting a Mews. In truth it just opened more doorways to who knows what can lead to. Still, the boy kept reading for there happened to be more information regarding about the Mews. 'As with anything, a flooring is only as good as Ascen's maintenance of it. There is no perfect floor, but some substrates will fit his situation and constraints better than others. Keep it clean and regularly clean out bones, castings, food particles, and mutes. Keep it dry and well ventilated to prevent mold or insects from developing. In general, avoid concrete and brick unless they are overlaid with something else such as padded leather or plywood. Consider how the flooring itself will decay, particularly when damp or with mutes sitting on it. Consider how the hawk food will sit on it, sand will stick to food, and food may sit and rot on a plywood floor depending on the techniques and environment. Consider the ability to sanitize in case of disease. Consider if it attracts or allows insects and other vermin to hide. Consider how it dries after being cleaned. Consider if larger predators can get under, either by digging or by coming through a wall. Lining the ground with a foot or so of chicken wire or hardware wire will help prevent animals from digging under a mews. Extending this out from the mews wall will also help prevent invasion.'

'Wood chips can make an excellent flooring material if they are used in a way where they are not breaking down. Wood chips don't overheat in direct sunlight. Wood chips also will not dull talons if a bird bates a lot. However, wood chips are a biodegradable material and, when decomposing, they will harbor mold, fungus, and bacteria. In circumstances where they are not getting wet, and are rotated out appropriately, they can be an excellent material. On the other hand, so is sand. Sand can be readily available and work for many falconers. It is easily cleaned out and raked and is easy to manage. However, it will reflect a considerable amount of heat on a bird. A bird who is tethered and bates will have the effect of filing her talons into razor sharp needles. Some falconers spread an inch or two of sand over just a small area of the mews to have the bird bate on that area. However, sand can get under anklets and can abrade the skin. If a bird is fed on sand the particles can be ingested and impact in the GI tract. Sand works particularly well directly underneath a falcon's perch since she mutes straight down. This allows the area to be picked clean regularly.'

'Shavings may work well enough for a flooring in cold climates, but should be cautioned in warm or moist climates. Being fine, they will produce an amount of particulate matter in the air, moisture gets held in them and they can mold, but perhaps more importantly, they are small enough for a bird to ingest them, especially if food is dropped onto the floor. Shavings in the system will cause an impaction and can be difficult to diagnose and put over. Straw, different from hay, is the perfect substrate for mold spores. It likely has some mold already in it from the moisture and spores from harvest, then it has been bundled up and the mold has been allowed to grow. Being an organic material it should be avoided at all costs. Straw even near the mews should be cautioned as the propensity for developing asper is very high.'

"Great, so no putting straw near the Mews since the straw is likely to cause mold that can drive the bird ill." Ascen mumbled to himself as his young brain felt like it was almost throbbing with all of the information being poured into his mind. Least to say that he's learning more about how to maintain a Mews and would know what kind of flooring the Mews should have. Additionally Ascen would have to pick up if not practice on spotting the numerous possibilities of how the bird can injure herself so that Ascen can help avoid it from happening. This was something that Ascen is going to need practice and not just reading from a book of what he's supposed to be doing.

'Perches inside the mews must be provided with the bird in mind. A variety of perching surfaces should also be provided. Perches and windows go together as poorly placed perches in relation to the windows will cause the bird additional stress. Some birds will want to look out, while others will want a perch where they can feel secure and hidden. In a free lofted situation with part of the mews exposed to the weather, placing a favored perch in the weather will help her be exposed to enough sun, rain, etc. Be careful of perches in mews so that they are spaced far enough from the walls that if the bird turns around, her tail will not rub. And a tip to position the bath away from perches to avoid mutes in the bath. Some falconers will even place a large rock, like a large sandstone rock or even a large chunk of salt in desert climates, on a shelf perch or on the floor as another option for the bird to perch and feak on. Placing a window perch about 18" from the window gives her a way to look out of she wants, but keeps her far enough away from the wall that she will likely not damage her feathers.'

'Mews should have windows, primarily for ventilation. As humans, they would design windows for their comfort with large expanses of open view, however the bird's needs are slightly different. First, the windows need bars to prevent the bird from getting out and other animals from getting in. Most birds want to be able to escape and to hide. Mews windows can help her achieve the feeling of hiding by having slats that appear to be solid wall from certain angles. The ventilation will help air exchange, keep the mews fresh, prevent mold from taking hold, and allow moisture and mute to dry quickly.'

'Consider which direction the window will face. A southwardly facing window will bring in much direct sunlight and allow the bird to bask, however if that is the direction of winds or rain, then shutters may be appropriate or a mews which faces another direction, or vents placed in particular areas around the mews to allow the proper amount of cross ventilation. some birds are ok with large windows (24"x24") others need smaller windows to prevent bating. Larger windows may make a weathering yard completely unnecessary. Some falconers put an open strip all along the bottom of the mews to allow air exchange and the bird to view the outside if she wishes, but to increase her sense that she can "get up" and hide in the corners. Some birds prefer perches in front of the window, others do not. Consider amount of light to be let in, angle of sun, and wind direction. For mews bars, thick walled metal bar will hold almost any bird in and will not rot although it may be come brittle in cold weather or as it ages. However even the thick walled bar will flex beyond what some falconers are comfortable with. If one is using wood slats, anything from a 1"x2" to a 1"x6" will work. Mews bars for a Red-Tail sized bird should have no more than 1.75" of open space between the bars. Ideally there would be only 1.5" of open space between the bars. For a mews to hold any bird from a kestrel on up, it should have no more than 3/4" of open space between the bars.'

'An additional advantage is that from an angle the bars block the visual allowing the bird not to see some things that may alarm her, and keeping her more private and unbothered by onlookers. Also consider screening the window to prevent mosquitoes and bees from entering the mews. This will reduce the probability of a bee stinging Ascen's bird. If the boy plans on feeding meat in the mews, consider the early spring when wasps and yellowjackets are searching for meats and attracted to this. Either a fully enclosed mews or a change in the feeding pattern can prevent attracting a nest to be built next to his mews, and help reduce the chance that the boy's bird is stung. Creating window insets allows a window to be fully blocked if necessary in case of storm or need for greater privacy such as breeding. For a management setup with the bird in the house, some birds are fine without any modification to the home.'

[Ascen]

After Ascen has learnt much about the Mews and in truth the boy still hasn't read through all of it. Ascen decides to research more about the gloves and skipped over to the Falconer's Gloves. Fortunately Ascen found more than just the gloves. 'The falconer's gauntlet is perhaps the most recognized piece of falconry equipment. This can be a very expensive purchase, or it may be done on the cheap. Traditionally a glove is only worn on the left hand, but left-handed falconers tend to wear a glove on their right hand. A glove for a falcon usually only covers the hand and wrist. A glove for a hawk tends to be much longer and more of a gauntlet. Eagle handling gloves may cover much of the arm. Although one might want as much sensitivity to the bird as possible, the gauntlet is for protection and to provide the bird with a secure perch, and the proper glove must be chosen for each bird. Lesser quality gloves keep the talons out of owner's hand just as well as more expensive ones, and if one tends to lose or destroy them easily, these can be the right glove for them.'

Another thing that Ascen finds is something that would make sense to have in order to locate their birds better. In fact Ascen now has grown curious on if Frostfawn Hold has placed any bells on their birds. Though Ascen hasn't seen a bird carrying a bell to be frank, but he can't help other than be curious about it. At any rate, 'bells are used to help locate a bird while hunting. Some falconers leave the bells on the bird at all times while others only attach bells when they are hunting. One consideration when choosing a bell is the size. The bells can be quite cumbersome and having a lot of metal down near the feet banging around can be uncomfortable. Very tiny bells can only be heard when close to the bell. Many people flying falcons will not even use a bell as the bird is so high as to be out of hearing range. Choose a bell with your bird in mind, not just the thought that a larger bell will be a louder bell. Indeed, it is more useful to have two bells of slightly different tones than two larger bells - the off tones will carry farther and be easier to locate than two large, identical bells. Birds may be annoyed at a bell when it is first introduced. A piece of thin cloth can be placed over the opening or across the slit to dampen the sound initially, or while in the mews.'

'Never use a jingle bell or a bell not made for falconry. These bells usually have a slit that could catch a bird's beak or talon. A bird can easily crack its beak if caught in the slit of a bell. Pay for good quality equipment and a well made falconry bell. It will last for many years. Over time the metal in the bell becomes work hardened where the tone sounds dead and will eventually crack. Bells left on a bird constantly will hit this point much faster. This can be reversed in a process called annealing. This is when the bell metal is removed from the bird and any leather equipment and then heated until it just glows being careful not to melt any of the soldering. This can easily be achieved with a propane torch, but can also be done on the stove. The bell will be red and have a soft glow from the heat, and should then be dunked in cold water. This process works best on brass, particularly benefitting low quality metal. In normal use dirt can get caught in a bell and silence it. Bells can be removed from the bird and boiled to help release this material, and a blast of air may dislodge it. Bells are traditionally attached directly around the bird's leg with a small strip of leather called a bewit, but may be attached in three main ways: to the leg, to the tail, or to the neck.'

Well that wasn't as bad as Ascen thought it would be. In truth the boy expected to be as long and complicated as the Mews. But that doesn't seem to be the case on this part. Still, there's only a little more information left regarding about the bells. 'It is very important that if a bell is attached directly around the leg, only a natural material such as leather is used to do it. If leather is used, then the sueded side of the leather should face away from the bird's leg. Tail mounted bells require a clip on the shaft of a tail feather to attach the bell to. It is common to use a tail mounted transmitter and a tail bell together as they will both be attached to the same mounting on the tail feather. One disadvantage of the tail mount is that some birds dislike it and will end up pulling out a feather to remove the mounting. Other birds don't mind it, but if the mounting catches on anything, then the feather will also result in being pulled out. The advantage of this mounting is that many birds will not move their feet when they are down on game, yet they may move their tail. The tail bell would be heard in that case. The tail mounted transmitter also has the advantage of not hanging down past the bird's form and is less likely to connect with trees and cause a crash landing.'

'Traditionally a short leather strap is used to attach a bell around the bird's neck, but many falconers now prefer an elastic band of some sort. A thin elastic band or a 1/16" covered elastic works well. The warning with the elastic is that it must be tight enough to prevent the bird from getting a toe caught in it if she scratches or getting her lower mandible caught in it if she preens or catching on something as she's hunting, yet loose enough to allow her to eat and cast comfortably. Elastic can also lose its elasticity over time, so check the condition of it often. The other warning is to select a material that will break. If the neck bell elastic gets caught on something and the elastic does not break, chances are the bird's neck will break. As such a Scunci hair band is a bad choice of materials as it just won't break. A thin strip of leather is good as is a piece of cloth. If the bird catches it on a twig or catches a talon through it, she will easily break the band. Some falconers can go without ever having an incident with any neck bell material, however it should be cautioned that the loop can catch and a material that will break can save a bird's life. These should just be put on just before hunting then cut off right after hunting.'

'As a point of reference, an average Sharp-Shinned Hawk has a neck diameter about the size of 18mm, an average Cooper's Hawk has a neck diameter about the size of 21.2mm, and an average Goshawk has a neck diameter of about the size of 25mm. The elastic should not be stretched over a Pinion when it is measured, but just laid over without any stretching. This is the same size for measuring a jangoli for a bird. The risk of a wrong size or material is that a bird could strangle herself or could be prevented from casting. The small diameter loop minimizes feather damage, minimizes aggravation to the feeding hawk, minimizes clogging with blood and feathers, eliminates caught lower mandibles, and minimizes the chance of a caught toe or twig.'

[Ascen]

The young boy lightly bumped his head on the shelf and he finally realized of his surroudings. In truth Ascen's liquid gold eyes were starting to get heavy and it was hard to keep his eyes open since he's been reading so much. Looking at the time by trying to look out the window for the sun only to find that there is no more sun. Ascen has been out here for many hours now and in truth the boy feels mentally exhausted. The sweet whispers of slumber is almost too irresistable in Ascen's mind, but he felt like he can read one more thing about this manual before he goes to sleep.

So he turns the book into the next chapter that is entitled as Bal Chatri, a term that actually confused Ascen's exhausted mind for a moment until he read further into the chapter. 'One of the most traditional falconry activities is trapping. Long before it was discovered how to breed and raise birds in captivity, birds had to be trapped to be used in falconry.' Though in truth Ascen cringed on that sentence about birds having to be trapped to be used in falconry. Since Ascen has a deep love for birds and can actually communicate with them by speaking the Nari tongue rather fluently. He's never really needed to use methods of trapping to get a bird to come to him. Then again those birds were already being used for falconry, so those circumstance might be a little different Ascen realized. Without much thought on it, Ascen continued onto his journey of knowledge with his head hung low and his soft golden eyes obtaining information about what this book possess.

'Safety is the most important factor in trapping - and that is safety of the bird, not of you. The last thing falconers want to do is injure any bird, particularly a potential hunting partner. However, accidents may happen. The falconer must take precautions to ensure that injuries do not occur. The traps referenced here can all be used safely, and most of them are routinely used and recommended by governmental agriculture departments, wildlife rehabilitators, and scientists who band birds for study. Trapping the bird can be done without hurting her in any way. First, do no harm.' Ascen practically rolled his eyes on that last sentence as he figured that should be obvious. Unless one lacks common sense this should be a given, or so Ascen thinks at any rate.

'Most traps should never be left unattended. A trap may be set and the falconer may move off to allow a bird to become ensnared, but the trap is never left unattended. A bird ensnared may panic and need to be released or tangle herself up badly if left for long. A bird ensnared is also a welcome sight to other predators. Never lose sight of your trap. Your trap should always be weighted with a weight heavy enough that the bird cannot carry the trap any distance, however it should "give" so that an ensnared bird does not hit the end of the trap and come to an abrupt halt. The trap weight must be appropriate for the type of bird you are trapping. An iron spike, horseshoe, or two lengths of rebar work well for a Bal-Chatri for a Red-Tail. A length of suitably weighted chain also works well as the effective weight of the trapping mechanism gradually increases as the bird attempts to carry the trap. If more weight is needed for this type of bird, be sure to use a hempen rope to attach the weight to the trap. If the bird can carry the trap at all, she will in a panic. Make sure that the trap is properly weighted and attached to a hempen rope, if necessary.'

'If you are trapping in a game rich area, such as trapping Kestrels in 80° weather where the grasshoppers are thick, you will likely have a hard time drawing any birds to any setup that looks even slightly off - there is just too much other choice that is easy and safe to go after. Be sure to select your trapping opportunities when you will have the success you want. Morning is the best time, right at dawn, for many birds as they are hungry and have likely just cast. Evening may work well, too, as birds who have not eaten that day may feel desperate to eat and come down to a trap. Cloudy weather tends to be better with more game holding tight. A cold spell where birds are expending more energy and looking for more food helps. The location to trap is also critical. Trapping Kestrels or Red-Tail Hawks will probably take you to farm land area.'

Ascen takes a moment to breathe for he realized that he's been holding his breath for a while now. Mostly because Ascen can't help but find this information rather disheartening. But at least this manual is going to detail of how to capture these raptors without hurting them so Ascen is somewhat rest assured about it. Still, Ascen keeps reading the next part that goes on about the bait which to be honest the young lad already knows what the bait normally is for these raptors. 'As important as the trap is the bait. Pigeons, starlings, sparrows, zebra finches, and mice all make good bait. If trapping Kestrels, grasshoppers can be used, too, although sparrows or Zebra Finches with a Dho-gazza trap work wonderfully. Kestrels also like mice. The most important thing for bait is that it moves around a lot. Because of this most people working use two mice together, or a mouse and a sparrow together, or otherwise have active bait. If white mice are the only thing available, some falconers will take a non-toxic safe black or brown magic marker and color up the mouse a more agouti color. Since Zebra Finches tend to sit side by side, creating a perching situation in a trap where there is a perch halfway up the trap, as in a pyramid shape, that will spin and barely fit two birds will keep the finches moving inside the trap.'

'Bait selection also must be made based on the species intended to be captured. Red Tailed Hawks do well with mice, rats or even birds while Cooper's Hawks will be more likely to be caught when pigeons, sparrows, or starlings are used. Mice are easily available by trapping any non-native mouse species such as the house mouse., what some people may casually refer to as "field mice" as they are found in homes or barns. Darker mice are far preferred to lighter mice as it more closely looks like the native coat patterns. If you are keeping the mice for several days, they can be kept in a coffee can with holes punched in it, provided with plenty of newspaper and paper towels for nesting in and shredding, and plenty of succulent vegetables to eat so that they are well nourished and hydrated. Some trappers keep the mice as pets and will use them year after year while others release the wild mice or English Sparrows they caught for bait. The point is that these are animals, too, and the intent is to not injure them during the trapping.'

'There are two main types of traps - nooses and nets. Nooses depend on a set of tiny nooses to ensnare a bird's toes. Some nets are made to enclose around the bird's entire body and entrap the whole of the bird and some catch the birds as they fly into the structure.
If you are trapping on the ground, flat black is usually the best color for any trap. Mist nets or Dho-Gazzas may be other colors depending on the light and background. If you are trapping on snow, you will want a white trap. The biggest difference between noosed traps is the way that the nooses are arranged. Nooses are made of fibers such as horse hair. Well-made and well-used noose traps are among the safest and easiest to use. The bird is caught rather quickly and is easily untangled, and therefore stressed less. Some falconers believe that nooses must be locking so that when they contract around a bird they lock in their smallest position. The problem with locking nooses is that they can damage the bird's circulation. If a bird happens to get free of the trap and a noose is stuck on her, she could lose a toe or leg due to the damage. When a bird hits a trap and a noose closes, that bird's reaction is going to be to tug. The action of tugging will keep the noose tight around her until you can get to her. There is a possibility of losing a bird on a trap with a non-locking noose, but the potential problems are less. I have never lost a bird with non-locking nooses, and many master banders prefer them.'

[Prophet]

This thread has been found to be full of plagiarism. This is your first and final warning.

http://www.mizahar.com/lore/Terms_of_Use

No credit well be given. Also, you may wish to rethink your character concept. The internal narrative reads like something I would expect of a young adult. While Mizahar is a fantasy site, realism is expected that is why the lore and skills system exists.

That is all.